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Thanks! I assume you mean this line:
Water leaks and/or ice build up at the bottom of the refrigerator
We mean the bottom of whichever compartment is at the bottom of the appliance. If it is a freezer, then it will be ice. If it’s the fresh food compartment, then it will likely just be liquid water. Side by side – depends which side!
Does that answer your question?
I can’t see the image that you’re referring to.
Can you either quote it, or email the image to me?
Hi Denis,
The “adj” just means it is adjustable. This is not something you’ll see very often in appliances, if at all.
The 3rd from the bottom has an auxiliary set of contacts that appears to be connected in some mechanical way. (That is the usual usage of a dashed line like that.)
Lots of these symbols are pretty unusual for appliances, so while it’s great to scan them and look at differences, etc., like you are, don’t feel like you need to understand each one fully. The most important thing is to recognize loads vs. switches.
Hi Andrew,
I suppose we could say “What types of dryers *are designed to* run on 120vac?” for students who are unclear. However, an electric dryer does not have a plug that will fit into a 120v outlet, so in that sense there is no way an electric dryer can run on 120v because you’d never be able to plug it in!
Does that help?
Hi Nihar,
The “they” in the question is referring to the screen. I’ll clarify the question a bit to make that clearer.
“If you see that the screens in a water inlet valve have become clogged, and they (the screens) are not the kind that are designed to be replaced, what should you do?”
Does that help?
Yes – it’s a good example of how the problem that is presenting is a result of a failure that is not immediately obvious.
Of course!
The two answers are:
Overly long dry times
No heatingThe first one is most obvious. The second one comes from this bit in the lesson:
“A dryer’s heating system must have proper air flow in order to operate correctly. If it does not, it may trip a hi-limit thermostat or a thermal fuse, which will cause the machine to stop operating.”
Does that make sense?
Hi Denis,
Our preference is the bell-type crimp connector sealed with a bit of silicon. But some folks have other opinions!Hi Jerry,
No problem – I just reset you. By the way, you’ll be sure to get the fastest response for a reset if you use the Quiz & Exam Reset Request form in the “Campus Support” menu when needed.Cheers!
I got a little more detail: A low-side leak, since it is on the side with a slight vacuum, will draw outside air/moisture into the system, which will quickly contaminate it and require replacement of compressor and filter drier. A high-side leak will cause refrigerant to exit the system, so it isn’t so damaging, at least in the short run. If it goes on long enough contamination can occur.
It says in the last video, about replacing the compressor, that when there is a low-side leak, you can assume that the compressor is contaminated with oil and must be replaced.
I’ll check with our tech team tomorrow to see if I can get you any more detail on that.
That is correct!
Nihar – I just sent you an email about these items.
Hi Joel,
Always feel free to ask when you are wondering about something!
I checked with the Samurai and he said that just saying “per fill” is the clearest way to put it. (A cycle often is just one fill, so the terms are often used interchangeably, but sometimes there are multiple fills in a cycle.)
Thanks for checking!
Hi Kevin,
#7 is correct.
#8: 120v each for all loads would only be correct if all 4 of these loads were in parallel with each other, which is not the case.
The Main Coil is wired in series with the Ignitor and Booster, not in parallel, so it cannot drop 120v. Also, if it were dropping any voltage, then the Ignitor and Booster could not be 120v each. *The closed detector switch has an impact on these loads that you missed.*
If you do the “Zen trick” from Unit 5, “become” the Ignitor, or the Booster. How do you reach N?
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